Mate ja miljon mahla

Saarlased leidsid suure saare

Mõned näited, mida tegime ühel kenal veebruaripäeval Marajo saarel keset Amasoonase jõge:

  • Sattusime esimest korda selle reisi jooksul kohta, mis meeldiks ka päris metsikut loodust ja “pärapõrgut” hindavatele reisisellidele: mõõnaaegne Amasoonase rannik, kus on veel paar viimast kõrgetel tokkidel indiaanionni ja siis kümnete kilomeetrite kaupa valget liiva, tokke, põhjamuda, mangroovi ja veidi eemal vihmametsa.
  • Tundsime tsipa hirmu, et tõus tuleb peale ja Suur Amasoonas haarab meid kaasa, enne kui rattaga mangroovide vahelt tagasi sillale vingerdada jõame.
  • Tundsime ka esimest korda Brasiilias nati jahedust kontides: paduvihmaga ujumast tulles, kui kindlasti yle 30-kraadise vee kõrval vast isegi alla 25ne õhk jahedalt näpistas :)
  • Kohtusime mehega, kes teatas tagasihoidlikult, et tema pühvlikari on väga tilluke, kõigest 120 pead :)
  • Kohtusime pühvitel sõitvat politseiüksust

Sama päeva menüü:

  • Hommikusöök paduvihma eest varjus turuputka serva all, papagoilinaga laua ja lahke vanaprouaga: tapiocinha ehk väike tapioca – natuke plastisem pannkook juustusisuga ja värske guajaavimahl.
  • Lõunaeine sama kehvakeses palmilehtedest katusega onnis Amasoonia rannal toreda pere keskel: üks suur krabi (kelle kest tuli meie kurvastuseks puust nuiaga ise katki lyya), kuhjaga kauss kyyslaugu-laimiga krevette ja loomulikult oad ning farofa, nendeta ei saa ju kuidagi hakkama.
  • õhtuks hiiglaslikud avokaadod, kohalik pühvlijuustusai tomatiga ja järjekordne hull mahl, ehk oli mandaba seekord.

3–4 päeva Marajol kadusid kui lennates, kihutasime vanade Caloi ratastega külast külla, rannast randa, hoolega vaadates, et porilombis pikutavale vesipühvlile otsa ei kihutaks – neid tegelasi leiab siit sadu tuhandeid. Nende endi loomismüüt jutustab, et kari olla kunagi sajandeid tagasi uppuvalt prantslaste laevast saarele ujunud ja ideaalse elukoha leidnud. Ei tea kuidas tegelikult oli, aga sarviliste juust maitseb hea ja tunduvad sõbralikud tööloomad kah, kes siin Brasiilia kõige vaesemas kandis usinalt kohalikke aitavad.

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Mis raamat see selline on?

“Mate ja miljon mahla” maalib pildi Lõuna-Ameerikast, nii nagu see kahele noorele eestlasele, Mele Pestile ja Kristjan Jansenile jalgsi, rattaga, busside ja rongidega reisides silma jäi. Lapsest peale kaartidelt ja raamatutest uuritud lemmik-maailmajagu sai üheksa kuu jooksul lähistroopikast jäämägedeni läbi rännatud ja raamatusse pandud, pikituna inimestelt kuuldud lugude ja märkmikuserva visandatud joonistustega.

Kust osta?

Raamat on müügil: Apollo ja Rahva Raamatu keti poodides, Tallinna Hispaania Majas, Tartu Ülikooli raamatupoes, Genialistide Klubis, Kuressaare Kaubamajas ja siin-seal veel.

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